Where I shop: Cook’s Seafood, Menlo Park
I have to admit to being a snob when it comes to fresh seafood. I grew up on the coast of Maine and my family bought seafood from Harbor Fish Market (harborfish.com) on the wharves of Portland, Maine. Whenever I go home it is a joy to see the pristine seafood that Mainers take for granted on a daily basis. I love seafood. It is hands down one of my favorite things to eat. From cod cheeks to lobster and uni, I enjoy it all. I try to always eat sustainably raised and local fish and seafood.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium offers valuable information about this topic on its ‘seafood watch’ list found at http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch. Here in California, I initially found it difficult to find really fresh seafood. Then I found out about Cook’s. Cook’s Seafood (cooksseafood.com) is located in Menlo Park and has the freshest fish in the San Francisco Bay Area. My second favorite—and it’s only second because it is in the East Bay, is the Monterey Fish Market in Berkeley. Cook’s has been open since 1928. The building is divided into two parts—the fish market and the restaurant.
The restaurant has a simple menu, but offers excellent fish ‘n chips among other things. The staff in the fish market is extremely knowledgeable and friendly. I don’t buy fish anywhere else. I consider fish a specialty item and I feel that big grocery stores do not give enough attention to the seafood department. When I walk into a grocery store and can smell the fish department I always take it as a sign to stay way! Fresh fish will never smell ‘fishy’. If you are buying a piece of fish, it should always be firm—not mushy. If you are buying a whole fish, look for clear and shiny eyes. If you are on the peninsula and are in the mood for seafood, or simple but well executed fish and chips, make sure to go to Cook’s.
Homemade Croutons
It’s the simple things that matter most.
I discovered the absolute joy of homemade croutons while I was in cooking school in France. Oh to take a slice of white bread, cut it into cubes or other shapes (hearts on Valentines Day) and fry it in butter with a generous sprinkling of salt and a twist of freshly ground black pepper. So tasty, I still dream about it over 15 years later. Croutons are easy to make at home—it just takes a few minutes and the results are so much more pleasing than the jawbreakers that pass for croutons at salad bars nationwide. So what are the advantages to making croutons at home? Well, this way you won’t be left with half a box of croutons that you will only throw away next spring. Freshly made they are crunchy on the outside and give just a little in the middle with an enticing softness. You can pierce them with your fork. They are highly addictive so unless your will power is greater than mine you should only make as much as you need. You can control the seasonings and limit the sodium. With homemade there will be no hydrolyzed this and high fructose that unless your kitchen is wildly different than mine. At the Cordon Bleu, we used pan de mie, or Pullman loaf in English. Any fine grained sandwich bread will do. I like to experiment and use whole wheat, pumpernickel or rye bread depending on the recipe and salad dressing. Don’t limit your use crouton use to just salads though. They add a really pleasing crunch to pureed and blended soups and are a classic accompaniment to gazpacho.
Croutons
1 slice of sandwich bread, crusts removed and cut into cubes or other shapes with a cookie cutter.
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Salt
Pepper
Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread cubes to the pan and toss gently to coat. Saute until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper while still warm.
Enjoy with or without your favorite salad!
Stanford Redux: Cheese Lasagna and Garlic Bread
Lasagna is a crowd pleaser. Everyone I cook for loves lasagna, especially when the weather keeps you inside the house. There is something really comforting about staying indoors and cooking when it is cold and raining. The kitchen is nice and warm and the smell of tomato sauce, cheese, garlic and basil will make your mouth water. I also like lasagna because it is easy to make—especially if you follow my recipe using no boil noodles. This is also a great way to incorporate bits and pieces of leftover veggies from the fridge. Lasagna freezes well so you can easily have a pan of lasagna stowed in the freezer for a quick and delicious dinner—really impressive when guests show up for an impromptu dinner or if you are too tired to cook.
The secret to dressing up a simple dinner is in the accompaniments. Make a terrific garlic bread with a homemade garlic butter (see my recipe below), have your guests wash and prep salad greens, make a simple vinaigrette and you will have a 3 star dinner in no time flat! I recently taught another cooking class at the Stanford dorms in Palo Alto. That was the menu we made, plus Panna Cotta for dessert. The students loved the results.
I like to use the lasagna recipe from America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook. Technically, it’s a flawless recipe and it’s easy to add vegetables, meat or herbs to it to change it up.
Variations:
Spinach and Shitake Mushroom
Italian Sausage and Summer Squash
Roasted Red Pepper and Swiss Chard
Cheese Lasagna
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated Family Classics
Tomato Sauce:
3 Tbsp. Olive Oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 (28oz) can of crushed or diced tomatoes
1 (14oz) can of Tomato Sauce
3 Tbsp. minces fresh basil or 3 tsp. dried
¼ tsp sugar
Salt
- Heat the oil and saute the garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often until fragrant, but not browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and the tomato sauce. Bring to a simmer and cook until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.
- Stir in the basil and sugar. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
*If you don’t have time to make the tomato sauce you can use a 32oz jar of high quality marinara.
*For a meat sauce, brown 1 pound of ground beef to the garlic before adding the tomatoes.
Lasagna
9×13” baking dish
9 ‘no boil’ lasagna noodles
1 (15oz) container of ricotta cheese
½ cup of grated parmesan cheese
¼ cup of chopped basil or 4 tsp. dried
2 eggs
1 clove of garlic, minced
½ tsp pepper
1 tsp salt
1# of mozzarella, shredded (not fresh mozzarella)
- Combine the eggs, ricotta, ¼ cup of the parmesan, garlic, basil, salt and pepper.
- Assemble the lasagna: Spread a scant ½ cup of sauce on the bottom of the baking dish. Place three lasagna noodles evenly spaced across the pan. Top each noodle with 3 Tbsp. of the cheese mixture and spread evenly over the noodle. Sprinkle shredded mozzarella over the cheese-noodle layer. Spread ½ cup of pasta sauce over the noodles. Repeat two more times, finishing the lasagna off with a layer of sauce and cheese, topping it off with the remaining parmesan. *At this point you can wrap and freeze the lasagna for 1 month. To cook, place the frozen covered lasagna in a 350F oven for 90 minutes. Uncover for the last 15 minutes of cook time.
- Cook the lasagna covered with greased foil for 35 minutes. (Greasing the foil keeps the cheese from sticking.) After 35 minutes, remove the foil and continue cooking for 10 minutes.
- It’s easiest to serve and cut if you let the lasagna rest for 20 minutes or so.
Phoebe’s roasted garlic bread
Preheat oven to 350F
1 loaf of Italian style bread, pugliese or Batard
Roast 1 head of garlic, mash and set aside
¼ c softened butter
1/4c. Parmesan cheese, grated
2 Tablespoons of chopped parsley or 2 tsp. dried
Salt and Pepper to taste
Combine the garlic, butter, parmesan and parsley. Cut the bread crosswise into slices, leaving the slices hinged to the bottom crust. Using a knife spread the roasted garlic butter between the slices. Wrap in foil and place in the oven to heat. Heat for about 15 minutes.
What I’m Reading: The Cheese Course
I don’t know about you, but I find it challenging to come up with new and exciting things to pair with cheese. It’s so easy to fall into a rut! That’s where this book is a life saver! For a dinner party, I was requested to pair cheddar with ‘something’. Apples and honey are a lovely, but slightly boring pairing. Quince paste, while perfect with Manchego is not as enticing with a mature cheddar. I found a great recipe for a pear, cranberry and walnut compote in my little book. It was delicious and easy to make too! The morning of the dinner party I went to the Ferry Building to pick out cheese from Cowgirl Creamery and dessert from Miette’s. I always ask the folks at Cowgirl for recommendations and I was not disappointed. I ended up with a fantastic cheddar from Cabot Creamery and the pear, cranberry and walnut chutney was fabulous with it.
Cranberry Pear Chutney
Adapted from ‘The Cheese Course’ by Janet Fletcher
½ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
6 oz cranberries
1 # pears, (about 2 or 3 good sized pears) peeled, quartered, cored and diced
1 cup sugar
½ cup cider vinegar
1 2-inch pice of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 cinnamon stick
1 clove
½ cup raisins or currants
In a saucepan, combine the cranberries, pears, sugar, vinegar and ginger. Add the cinnamon stick and clove to the saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Continue to simmer until the cranberries have collapsed and the pears are tender, about 15 minutes or so. Stir the raisins into the chutney and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the walnuts. Cool and before serving remove the ginger, cinnamon stick and clove. Serve the chutney alongside the cheddar cheese. This chutney freezes well and will last about a week in the fridge. I also liked this with soft ripened cheese such as Brie or Camembert.
What I’ve Made This Week
Sometimes it is not until I write down my menu list for the week that I realize that there is a particular theme to the meals that I have made. This week was mushrooms. I couldn’t seem to get enough of them!
Soy Chicken Braised in Coconut Juice, soy sauce and spices
French Onion Soup
Lamb Moussaka
Lasagna
Tabbouleh
Lentil Salad with Vegetables
Grilled Shrimp
Spaghetti and Meatballs
Braised Brisket with dried Porcini Mushrooms
Barley Mushroom Risotto
Moroccan Chicken with Olives and Preserved Lemon
Chicken Korma
Saag Paneer
Lots of Rice Pilaf, Indian Style and Plain too.
Spinach and Sweet Potato Enchiladas with Tomatillo Sauce and Crème Fraiche
Triple Chocolate Brownies
Crab Cakes
Portobello Mushroom and Bulgur Burgers
Cheese Fondue
Thai Coconut Soup with Swiss Chard and Tofu
Orange Beef
Beet and Goat Cheese Salad
Strawberry Rhubarb Compote (Yay! Rhubarb is back!)
A Good Week
It’s been a great week so far! I’ve discovered ‘Somersaults’ a delicious and healthy new snack, made with sunflower seeds. Somersaults come in a few different flavors. I like the sea salt and the black pepper varieties. I didn’t care for the cocoa and haven’t tried the salsa. Whole Foods has started carrying drinks sweetened with agave nectar—important for my family since my mom has blood sugar issues. I really liked the Gingerade from Big Island Organics. It was pleasantly piquant and definitely gingery with 1 oz of ginger juice in each 16 oz bottle. I found and purchased an almost new racy, red kitchen aid (with all of the attachments!) at a yard sale for $75 and Mollie Stones, the supermarket in my neighborhood has started carrying Labne. Labne is a yogurt cheese—it’s simple to make—it’s just strained yogurt, but until recently it has been difficult to find in the grocery store. I think it is a yummy alternative to cream cheese. Spice, by Ana Sortun with Nicole Chaison has a great recipe for a winter salad using Labne. It starts with a base of Labne, mixed with herbs and pecans, formed into a disc and topped with a marinated apple slaw and endive. It was delicious, refreshing and different.
Have you found any new and exciting treats at the grocery store lately? If so, please share!! I’m always interested in trying new foods and products.
Endive and Apple Salad with Grapes, Sumac and Pecan Labne
Adapted from Spice by Ana Sortun with Nicole Chaison
Serves 4
½ cup pecan pieces, toasted and chopped finely. Reserve 1 Tbsp for garnish.
1 Granny Smith apple, julienned
2 tsp each chopped mint, dill and parsley
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 Tbsp. Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
A handful of grapes, stemmed and washed
1 garlic clove, grated
¾ cup of labne
2 Tbsp. ground melba toast or very crisp, dry breadcrumbs
1 head of endive
Sumac for garnish (If you can’t find sumac sprinkle a few drops of lemon juice over the finished dish.)
- Toss the julienned apple with the 1 Tbsp of olive oil, the herbs and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Cut the grapes in half and add them to the apple mixture.
- Combine the labne, the remaining 2 Tbsp. of olive oil the melba crumbs, grated garlic and pecans. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Trim the bottom ends of the endive and remove the leaves, one by one. When you reach the heart of the endive, set it aside.
- Slice the endive hearts into thin rings and toss with the apple mixture.
- Assemble the salad by placing a couple of tablespoons of labne on the bottom of each salad plate.
- Using the back of a spoon, smooth the labne into a 2 inch circle. Arrange the endive spears on each plate at a slight angle, sticking the bottom of the spears into the labne.
- Spoon ½ tablespoon of the apple mixture over each endive spear. Sprinkle sumac and reserved pecan pieces over the salads and serve.
Lamb Kebabs with Charmoula Citrus Dressing
I’ve been meaning to make the Lamb Kebabs with Charmoula Citrus Dressing from Joyce Goldstein’s Mediterranean Fresh cookbook for a while now and I couldn’t put it off any longer. Chermoula is a Moroccan sauce flavored with lemon, garlic, parsley, cilantro, paprika and cumin. It is zesty and extremely flavorful without being overwhelming. Since it is not overwhelming it is an extremely versatile sauce. I use it to marinate chicken and fish, as a dip for pita, as dressing for pasta salads…so be creative! I served the kebabs with a couscous salad and roasted cauliflower for a simple and delicious meal. I would recommend pairing this meal with a rose, pinot noir or other lighter red wine such as a Chinon or a cotes du rhone.
Lamb Kebabs with Charmoula Citrus Dressing
Adapted from Mediterranean Fresh by Joyce Goldstein Serves 4
2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of fat and sinews and cut into cubes. I also really like lamb shoulder for kebabs. It’s a little more work than the leg of lamb to bone out the shoulder blade, but I find that it is a more tender and flavorful cut.
1 small shallot, roughly chopped
1 cup of Charmoula Citrus Dressing (recipe follows)
Olive Oil, Salt and Pepper
Combine the shallot and the dressing in a blender and puree. Pour this mixture over the meat and toss well to cover. Marinate overnight in the fridge or at room temperature for a few hours. (I marinated my lamb at room temperature for about 2 hours.) Bring the lamb to room temperature before grilling or broiling. Preheat your broiler or grill. Thread the meat onto the skewers. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil or grill to desired doneness. Serve immediately.
Charmoula Citrus Dressing (1 cup)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
3 cloves of garlic, grated or minced
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. cumin
Pinch of cayenne
2 Tbsp. Parsley
2 Tbsp. Cilantro
½ c. olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste.
Although the recipe says to mix this by hand, I found it much easier to put all of the ingredients in the blender and puree it. This worked out really well, and I had one less bowl to wash at the end of the night.
As Julia used to say, Bon Appetit!
The Power of Chocolate to Change the Future—brought to you by FRED (Food, Revelry, Eating and Drinking)
What a great name, huh? I have always been a firm believer that chocolate could change the future and now I know that other people feel the same way!! I spent this evening at a great event hosted by San Francisco hotshot chocolate maker Tcho. Their chocolates are exquisite. I highly recommend that you seek them out whether or not you are a chocoholic. FRED is not all about fun and games, no matter what you might hear. This was an event with a purpose. All proceeds from the event went to three different Haiti relief efforts. I was asked to donate some hors d’oeurves to the event. I couldn’t say no to such a worthy cause. I firmly believe that we all need to help each other out in this world, in whatever way we can, whenever we can.





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