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As soon as I saw this recipe I knew that I had to make it. It has three ingredients that I love, it was cold and rainy in San Francisco and I had just enough wild rice and pecans in my pantry to make it. This recipe is perfect for the Holidays and everyday in between. It is slightly heavy, chewy from the wild rice, nutty and rich from the pecans and slightly sweetish from the dried cranberries (you could substitute dried cherries or raspberries) nuanced gently with honey and some whole wheat flour. The whole thing just shouts ‘Yum!’. And you know, there are some days that are just bread baking days. The days that you want to spend next to the stove mixing and kneading –pouring your heart and energy into want you are making.
Here is the recipe—I tweaked in gently. Although this calls for 2 9-inch loaves, I made one smallish 9 inch and 2 mini loaves to give away.
4 cups bread flour (I used all purpose, and it worked out just fine. )
1 cup dried cranberries, cherries or raspberries
In a large pot, cover the wild rice with water and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat until tender. This is really important. You don’t want hard, jaw breaking bits of undercooked wild rice floating through the loaf. My wild rice was old and took over an hour to cook. I kept adding water to cover when it started to dry out. When the rice is tender, drain and set aside.
Toast the pecans in a 350F oven until they are fragrant. Set aside and when they are cool, coarsely chop.
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle, mix the warm water with the yeast and honey until the honey is dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes, until bubbly. In a small bowl, mix the whole wheat flour with the salt: add to the mixer and beat until a smooth dough forms. Mix in 2 cups of the bread flour until smooth. Add the wild rice, pecans and cranberries and mix until incorporated. Switch to the dough hook. Add the remaining 2 cups of bread flour and mix at medium speed until a soft, springy dough forms, about 10 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about an hour. (At this point I punched the dough down and put it in the fridge to coo k the following day and it worked out perfectly.)
Turn the dough out onto a lightly oiled surface and divide it into either 2 large loaves or 2 minis and 1 large. Place each loaf in the appropriate loaf pan. Cover and let stand until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375F. Bake the larger loaves for about 35 minutes, until a wooden skewer inserted in the center of each loaf comes out clean. The smaller loaves cook in about 25 minutes. Let the loaves stand until cooled slightly, about 30 minutes.
The recipe also says that the bread can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 1 month.
We did it! We survived the first Christmas of the first grandchild on each side of the family. Peace reigned, gifts were opened and exclaimed over, our baby was adorable and good natured.
We were feeling pretty good about life last night and on a whim, Pete and I opened up one of our ‘good’ bottles of wine. There are wines, and then there are wines. Everyone I know that works in the wine industry or collects has a wine that haunts them—it’s the wine that fascinates you and remains imbedded in your memory like a lost love or a one of a kind experience that you will never forget. For me, it was a 1989 Chateau Tayac Bordeaux Superior that I had at the Escoffier Restaurant at the Culinary Institute of America while I was a student there. It was the first wine that I actually ‘got’. Finally I understood what all the fuss was about. It was the moment when all the talk about nose, length and finish all made sense because this wine had it all. My husband’s wine was the legendary 1961 Latour—his Dad bought the wine when it was first released and sat on it for over 30 years.
Those wines that have it all are a rarity—but last night, we lucked out. This wine may not have been perfect for you, but it was perfect for us. It was amazing—It was the 1998 La Clusiere from St. Emilion. It’s all merlot—usually I don’t care for merlot but this was something truly outstanding. We decanted it and the perfume was wafting out of the decanter like a genie in the bottle. It had notes of dried black cherries, dried mushrooms, a touch of smoke and vanilla from the new oak barrels. Not only were the tannins seamlessly integrated into the wine but it had heft and rounded mouthfeel from the sweet ripe fruit. It was like drinking silk. Sooo good (insert eye roll here). And what did we pair with this fabulous wine, you may ask? It was great with our Christmas leftovers—that was the plan all along. I had braised a Veal Leg with Wild Mushrooms in a traditional French cream sauce. I love Bordeaux with mushrooms. It is one of my favorite wine and food pairings. (The recipe is from Daniel Boulud’s ‘Braise’ if you are interested.) As we finished the wine we also sampled some cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery. At $100+ a bottle, I don’t expect to repeat this particular wine experience anytime soon but it was great while it lasted…..What are some of your wine memories?
I have spent the past month being fascinated with Momofuku, the cookbook by David Chang and Peter Meehan. David Chang has received a James Beard award, and has had articles about him in magazines like the New Yorker and Esquire. It’s safe to say that his restaurants—Momofuku, Ko and SSaam Bar have been on my radar for a while now. Raw is the word that came to mind as I read the cookbook cover to cover. It’s in the same vein as Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, except it’s an actual cookbook. It’s a great cookbook too—but, this guy is controversial and I’m pretty sure that I wouldn’t work for him…ever. Wow, does he know what to say to tick people off or what? For example, he caused a mild furor in San Francisco last month when he said “fuckin’ every restaurant in San Francisco is just serving figs on a plate.” Now I can understand why he said it—I’ve gone into restaurants where our party has been sent out apple slices and peanut butter as an amuse bouche. (I mean come on I can stay at home and eat organic apples and peanut butter.) But he could have phrased it differently. Oh well. The cookbook is awesome and the recipes are truly spectacular. After reading the book I was inspired to make Momofuku’s ramen. Making the broth was a journey. Locating the ingredients took me to the local Hispanic market and the Asian market as well. The broth is really fantastic and totally worth the wait!
Momofuku’s Ramen Broth
Makes 5 quarts
Adapted from David Chang and Peter Meehan
Two 3 by 6 inch pieces of Konbu
6 quarts water
2 cups dried shitakes, rinsed
4 pounds chicken, either a whole bird or legs
5 pounds meaty pork bones (Neck bones are recommended. I found mine at the local Hispanic market on the recommendation of the butcher in my local grocery store. He told me that they would be cheaper at the Hispanic market and easy to find. He was right.)
1 pound smoky bacon (I used a pound of double smoked slab bacon.)
1 bunch scallions
1 medium onion, cut in half
2 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
Konbu was essentially the only ingredient that I had on hand when I decided to make this recipe. The reason that I got it is long forgotten but I was pleased to finally use it up and have a reason to go to the Asian grocery to get the dried shitakes. Dried shitakes are so much cheaper at Asian groceries than they are at American grocery stores! I made the mistake of going Nak’s in Menlo Park while I was hungry. I should never go grocery shopping while I am hungry especially if it is a store that I don’t always frequent. I left Nak’s with no less than 10 pounds of rice; 5 pounds of long grain brown, 5 pounds of black sticky rice (I do love sticky rice!) 2 bottles of sake, usukuchi (Japanese light soy sauce), Litchi gummies, wood ear mushrooms….point is I should have lunch then go to the grocery store. Fortunately I went to Chavez market after lunch or else I would have brought home a slew of dried chilies, tamarind soda and fresh corn tortillas in addition to my pork neck bones and a 4 pound whole chicken.
Ingredients in hand, away we go!
Rinse the konbu under running water, then combine it with the water in an 8 quart stockpot. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat and turn off the heat. Let steep for ten minutes. (I used the handy dandy alarm on my blackberry.)
2. Remove the konbu from the pot and add the shitakes. Turn the heat back up to high and bring the water to a boil, then turn the heat down so the liquid simmers gently. Simmer for 30 minutes, (out came the blackberry) until the mushrooms are plumped and rehydrated and have lent the broth their color and aroma. I discarded the leftover konbu. Chang recommends re-using the konbu in a grilled octopus salad. I didn’t have the time for that! I was making ramen broth.
Heat the oven to 400F
Remove the mushrooms from the pot with a spider or slotted spoon. Chang recommends making pickled shitakes with these babies, and that is what I did. They were delicious and worth making even if you are not making ramen broth.
Add the chicken to the pot. Keep the liquid at a gentle simmer. Skim and discard any froth, foam or fat that rises to the surface of the broth with the chicken is simmering and replenish the water as necessary to keep the chicken covered. After about 1 hour, test the chicken; the meat should pull away from the bones easily. If it doesn’t, simmer until that’s the case and then remove the chicken from the pot with a spider or slotted spoon. I saved the meat from the chicken to use in a simple pasta dish for dinner—I couldn’t see just throwing it away.
While the chicken is simmering, put the pork bones on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan and slide them into the oven to brown for an hour; turn them over after about 30 minutes to ensure even browning.
Remove the chicken from the pot and add the roasted bones to the broth, along with the bacon. Adjust the heat as necessary to keep the broth at a steady simmer; skim the scum and replenish the water as needed. After 45 minutes, fish out the bacon and discard it. Then gently simmer the pork bones for 6 or 7 hours—as much time as your schedule allows. Stop adding water to replenish the pot after hour 5 or so.
Add the scallions, onion and carrots to the pot and simmer for the final 45 minutes. (Out came the blackberry again.)
Remove and discard the spent bones and vegetables. Strain the broth. You can use the broth at this point or if you are making it in advance freeze at this time.
Finish the broth by seasoning it to taste with tare. I didn’t have time to make tare so I just used salt, soy sauce and mirin as Chang suggests.
For the final serving of the ramen, my friend Justine picked up some really good fresh ramen from Japantown for our feast. I picked up some kim chee, scallions and fried onions for garnishes. We also added a poached egg and slow roasted pork shoulder to our delicious broth.
This was a complete feat to make, but it was delicious. The greatest challenge was what to do with the leftover ingredients that infused the broth. I can’t just throw away food! I froze some of the broth and loved having it on hand for a quick meal. Will I make it again? Sure, not tomorrow, but someday soon.
I have been eyeing this recipe since I got Dorie Greenspan’s ‘Baking From My Home to Yours.’ The picture in the book is drool-worthy. These are delicious, decadent and really easy to make. The secret? Purchased Dulce de Leche. I love the combination of a crumbly shortbread-y crust, caramel-y duce de leche, nuts (!) and a dark chocolate layer on top. Oh my god. Totally heavenly. My mouth waters just thinking about it. If you bring these to the next office party or family gathering people will definitely sit up and take notice. I love the fact that you can throw the ingredients for the crust in the cuisinart and whir away until the dough forms then you press in, yes, that’s right press in the crust—no rolling out dough on the countertop and making a mess. You can even melt the chocolate layer in the microwave. The one complicated move is to caramelize the nuts—Dorie uses peanuts, but I had mixed nuts in my pantry so I used those instead. The caramelized nuts add a certain je ne sais quoi to the recipe, but if you are nervous about caramelizing or don’t have time you could just use roasted and salted nuts instead.
1 stick (8 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
Filling
Caramelized Nuts:
1 ½ cups salted, roasted nuts of your choice or a mixture of nuts
1/3 cup sugar
3 Tbsp. water
About 1 ½ cups of store bought dulce de leche (I used a 10oz jar of the Barefoot Contessa’s Espresso Dulce de Leche)
Topping
7 oz of bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped (I used Guittard bittersweet chocolate disks and eliminated the chopping.)
½ stick (4 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, at room temp.
Getting Ready: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350F. Butter an 8” square pan and put it on a baking sheet.
The Crust: Toss the flour, sugar, confectioners’ sugar and salt into a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Toss in the pieces of cold butter and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Pour the yolk over the ingredients and pulse until the dough forms clumps and curds—stop before the dough comes together in a ball.
Turn the dough into the buttered pan and gently press it evenly across the bottom of the pan. Prick the dough all over with a fork and slide the sheet into the oven.
Bake the crust for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it takes on just a little color around the edges. Transfer the pan to a rack and cool to room temperature before filling.
To make the filling:
Have a silicone mat-lined baking sheet at the ready, as well as a long-handled wooden spoon (you’ll be cooking sugar that will climb to over 300F, so you’ll want to keep as far away from it as possible) and a medium heavy bottomed sauce pan.
Put the sugar and water in the saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves (see picture). Keeping the heat fairly high, continue to cook the sugar, without stirring, until it just starts to color. (If sugar splatters onto the sides of the saucepan, wash down the splatters with a pastry brush dipped in cold water.) Toss in the nuts and immediately start stirring. Keep stirring to coat the nuts with the sugar. Within a few minutes, they will be covered with sugar and turn white—keep stirring until the sugar turns back into caramel. When the nuts are coated with a nice, deep amber caramel, remove the pan from the heat and turn the nuts out onto the baking sheet, using the wooden spoon to spread them out as best you can. Cool the nuts to room temperature.
When they are cool enough to handle, separate the nuts or break them into small pieces (I chopped mine.) Divide the nuts in half. Keep half of the nuts whole or in biggish pieces for the filling and finely chop the other half for the topping. Spread the dulce de leche over the shortbread base and then sprinkle with the whole candied nuts or the big pieces.
Topping:
Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water or in a microwave oven, using a low power setting. Remove the chocolate from the heat and gently stir in the butter, stirring until it is fully blended into the chocolate.
Pour the chocolate over the dulce de leche, smoothing it with a long metal icing spatula, then sprinkle over the finely chopped candied nuts. Put the pan into the fridge to set the topping, about 20 minutes; if you’d like to serve the squares cold, (I do!) keep them refrigerated for a least 3 hours before cutting.
Cut into 16 bars, each roughly 2 ½ inches on a side.
Oh, the holidays. Or the ‘Holi-daze’ as I like to call it. November and December are insane months for anyone in the food industry, and it is no different for me—I do my best—I start looking for gifts in August, try to stock my freezer with homemade ready-for-oven foods, but December always creeps up and bites me in the ass. My to-do list (and everyone else’s) is huge. This week and next week are particularly hectic—4 big parties plus my usual client load. The parties this week both went well, but after two intense days in the kitchen the last thing that I want to do is cook and clean the dishes on my one day off. That’s where this recipe kicks in—it’s quick, easy and delicious. Dungeness crab is in season, so it is perfect for the holi-daze and so easy anyone can make it.
Spaghetti with Crab, Scallions and Mint
Adapted from ‘Urban Italian’ by Andrew Carmellini and Gwen Hyman
I decreased the amount of olive oil for this recipe and increased the amount of butter. I also added the zest of one lemon to boost the lemon-y flavor. Otherwise, it’s perfect!
Serves 4
1 pound spaghetti (I used fresh Ramen because I had some in the fridge, but angel hair pasta or capellini would work too.)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
6 Scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced separately (I had three in my fridge, so that is what I used.)
1 pound crab meat, picked over for shells and cartilage
4 Tbsp. butter
½ cup mint leaves, chopped
Cook the pasta until al dente. Drain.
In a large skillet heat the olive oil and saute the scallion whites. You can add a clove or two of garlic if you like. Cook until softened and aromatic. Stir in the Old Bay. Add the clam broth, lemon juice, crabmeat, lemon zest and butter. Stir until the butter is melted.
Add the spaghetti and scallion greens to the skillet and toss to coat the spaghetti with the sauce. Remove from the heat and toss in the mint. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve and Enjoy! This recipe is sophisticated enough for company. Simply round out the meal with a salad and pick up some cookies or something yummy from the bakery for dessert.
I have to tell you it is much easier to get to the Farmer’s Market first thing in the morning when you have a baby. Once the baby is up there is not a chance of going back to bed for hours. Pre-baby, I was solely a mid-morning farmer’s market kind of gal. There is a beauty to getting up early in the morning, but for me that beauty exists during the week. Surely Saturday and Sunday were made to sleep it right? Wrong.
We finally started going to the Alemany Farmer’s market last week. I was surprised to find out that it is the oldest Farmer’s Market in California. It’s been in operation since 1943. Pretty cool, huh? There is a fabulous selection of produce available. For me, it is always overwhelming the first few times that I go to a new farmers market and it takes me forever to shop. First, I have to do a walk through and gauge what’s available, who’s certified organic, who has the cool weird (generally asian) stuff, who looks friendly, who is busy and who is not. Let me tell you—it is a challenge when I go by myself and this time I had the baby strapped to my chest and my husband following a discreet 10 paces behind me. The standouts were the walnut vendor and the date vendor. There were varieties of dates and walnuts that I had never heard of before! So exciting…it makes me want to buy a quarter pound of everything I haven’t tried before and do a comparative tasting. I limited myself to two varieties of dates–Blurry Black and Deglet Noor. I love to snack on dates—so yummy and sweet and good for you! For next week I have my eye on some red walnuts and I am busy researching walnut recipes to justify my purchase of these ‘red’ walnuts that are $9/pound.
Tonight we are having a farmer’s market dinner. I got home from yoga and threw together a quiche with swiss chard, oyster mushrooms and leeks all from the market. Mashed garnet yams on the side. It’s easy, quick and delicious dinner, especially if you have frozen pie crust in the freezer.
Here’s my basic quiche recipe, but mix it up and put in the vegetables that you like and have on hand.
1 bunch of swiss chard, leaves separated from the stem and washed
3 small leeks, use white and light green parts only
¼ # mushrooms, I used oyster, but you can use whatever you have or skip it completely.
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. butter
3 eggs
1 ½ cup milk
½ cup grated cheese. I used gruyere which is traditional for a quiche, but you are welcome to use other varieties such as cheddar, Monterey jack etc.
Press the pie crust into the pie plate and set aside in the fridge.
Slice the leeks and chop the swiss chard
Clean the mushrooms, and melt the butter in a saute pan. Brown the mushrooms in butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Browning the mushrooms adds a really nice layer of flavor.
Heat the olive oil in a second pan and saute the sliced leeks. Add the swiss chard, stir so that it starts to wilt. Add ½ cup water and cover.
Once the swiss chard has wilted and it tender, add the mushrooms and set aside.
Combine the milk, cheese and eggs.
Place the sautéed filling ingredients in your chilled pie shell.
Pour the milk mixture over the filling and give it a gentle stir. (more of a poke then a stir—you just want to make sure that everything is evenly distributed.)
Bake for about 35 minutes, until it is puffed, golden and jiggles ever so slightly in the center.
Remove from the oven, let it rest for 10 minutes or so, slice and enjoy!
I have to tell you it is much easier to get to the Farmer’s Market first thing in the morning when you have a baby.Once the baby is up there is not a chance of going back to bed for hours.Pre-baby, I was solely a mid-morning farmer’s market kind of gal.There is a beauty to getting up early in the morning, but for me that beauty exists during the week.Surely Saturday and Sunday were made to sleep it right? Wrong.We finally started going to the Alemany Farmer’s market last week.I was surprised to find out that it is the oldest Farmer’s Market in California.It’s been in operation since 1943.Pretty cool, huh? There is a fabulous selection of produce available.For me, it is always overwhelming the first few times that I go to a new farmers market and it takes me forever to shop.First, I have to do a walk through and gauge what’s available, who’s certified organic, who has the cool weird (generally asian) stuff, who looks friendly, who is busy and who is not.Let me tell you—it is a challenge when I go by myself and this time I had the baby strapped to my chest and my husband following a discreet 10 paces behind me.The standouts were the walnut vendor and the date vendor.There were varieties of dates and walnuts that I had never heard of before!So exciting…it makes me want to buy a quarter pound of everything I haven’t tried before and do a comparative tasting.I limited myself to two varieties of dates–Blurry Black and Deglet Noor.I love to snack on dates—so yummy and sweet and good for you!For next week I have my eye on some red walnuts and I am busy researching walnut recipes to justify my purchase of these ‘red’ walnuts that are $9/pound.
Tonight we are having a farmer’s market dinner.I got home from yoga and threw together a quiche with swiss chard, oyster mushrooms and leeks all from the market.Mashed garnet yams on the side.It’s easy, quick and delicious dinner, especially if you have frozen pie crust in the freezer.
Here’s my basic quiche recipe, but mix it up and put in the vegetables that you like and have on hand.
Phoebe’s Farmer’s Market Quiche
Preheat the oven to 375F
(1)9” pie crust
1 bunch of swiss chard, leaves separated from the stem and washed
3 small leeks, use white and light green parts only
¼ # mushrooms, I used oyster, but you can use whatever you have or skip it completely.
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. butter
3 eggs
1 ½ cup milk
½ cup grated cheese.I used gruyere which is traditional for a quiche, but you are welcome to use other varieties such as cheddar, Monterey jack etc.
Press the pie crust into the pie plate and set aside in the fridge.
Slice the leeks and chop the swiss chard
Clean the mushrooms, and melt the butter in a saute pan.Brown the mushrooms in butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.Browning the mushrooms adds a really nice layer of flavor.
Heat the olive oil in a second pan and saute the sliced leeks.Add the swiss chard, stir so that it starts to wilt.Add ½ cup water and cover.
Once the swiss chard has wilted and it tender, add the mushrooms and set aside.
Combine the milk, cheese and eggs.
Place the sautéed filling ingredients in your chilled pie shell.
Pour the milk mixture over the filling and give it a gentle stir. (more of a poke then a stir—you just want to make sure that everything is evenly distributed.)
Bake for about 35 minutes, until it is puffed, golden and jiggles ever so slightly in the center.
Remove from the oven, let it rest for 10 minutes or so, slice and enjoy!
The most popular cookbook in rotation this month was ‘Best of the Best Cookbook Recipes’, Vol. 12 from the editors of Food and Wine. It is hands down one of the best cookbooks that I have picked up in ages—all of the recipes have been terrific. An * indicates that I got the recipes from this wonderful book. Here goes:
Cardamom Spiced Lamb Riblets (Braise, Daniel Boulud)
Chicken Stew
Thai Style Lemongrass Tofu
Quinoa Salad with Fennel and Shitakes
Several quiches, including a traditional Quiche Lorraine, corn and bacon, spinach and shitake mushroom.
Butter Braised Cauliflower (just okay, a tad too rich for me.)
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We were feeling pretty good about life last night and on a whim, Pete and I opened up one of our ‘good’ bottles of wine. There are wines, and then there are wines. Everyone I know that works in the wine industry or collects has a wine that haunts them—it’s the wine that fascinates you and remains imbedded in your memory like a lost love or a one of a kind experience that you will never forget. For me, it was a 1989 Chateau Tayac Bordeaux Superior that I had at the Escoffier Restaurant at the Culinary Institute of America while I was a student there. It was the first wine that I actually ‘got’. Finally I understood what all the fuss was about. It was the moment when all the talk about nose, length and finish all made sense because this wine had it all. My husband’s wine was the legendary 1961 Latour—his Dad bought the wine when it was first released and sat on it for over 30 years.![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=0d95df25-d69f-4005-b599-0e048118959b)
I have spent the past month being fascinated with 
2. Remove the konbu from the pot and add the shitakes. Turn the heat back up to high and bring the water to a boil, then turn the heat down so the liquid simmers gently. Simmer for 30 minutes, (out came the blackberry) until the mushrooms are plumped and rehydrated and have lent the broth their color and aroma. I discarded the leftover konbu. Chang recommends re-using the konbu in a grilled octopus salad. I didn’t have the time for that! I was making ramen broth.
Add the scallions, onion and carrots to the pot and simmer for the final 45 minutes. (Out came the blackberry again.)![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=67e5b656-0454-45bd-842b-71b65e04e47c)
Crust:
To make the filling:
Topping:![Reblog this post [with Zemanta]](http://img.zemanta.com/reblog_e.png?x-id=ea682988-fef1-4737-9a98-fe619946c804)
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