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Inspiration for my cooking comes in many different forms. Magazines and cookbooks, trips to the farmer’s market and exquisite in season produce all inspire me. Sometimes, I just like to look a picture of a finished dish, glimpse a recipe and re-interpret it . That’s what I did this week with these lamb meatballs. The picture that I saw called them ‘Polpetonne di Agnello’ which is Italian for lamb meatballs. I loved the idea of a spring meatball with lamb and mint—mint is such a classic pairing for lamb, and my garden is full of it at the moment. I added a little parmesan cheese for richness, flavor and mouth feel. Then, I wanted to add a little bit of texture and a little bit of an eastern Mediterranean flair, so I incorporated some steamed bulgur and toasted pine nuts into the mix. I browned the meatballs and braised them in chicken stock. I tossed in fava beans, spring onions and asparagus at the very end and finished the sauce with a walnut sized lump of butter and a generous pinch of chopped fresh mint.
Phoebe’s Lamb Meatballs with Spring Onions, Fava Beans and Asparagus
1# ground lamb
1 egg yolk
2 cloves of garlic, minced or grated
¼ cup of cracked bulgur, cooked
*To cook simply cover the bulgur with boiling water, cover and let steep for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.
¼ c. grated parmesan cheese
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted and chopped
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
4-6 Tbsp. of chopped mint, depending on how much you like mint
¼ cup flour to roll the meatballs in
1 cup of chicken stock
½ cup white wine, water or more chicken stock
Vegetables
1 bunch of spring onions, outside layer peeled off
1 bunch of asparagus, about 12 ounces, ends trimmed, and remaining stalks chopped into 1 inch lengths
1 # of fava beans, shucked, blanched and peeled or if you don’t have the time for favas you can easily substitute 1 cup of fresh or frozen peas
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp chopped mint
Meatballs
Combine the all of the ingredients and go ahead and make meatballs. Roll the meatballs in the flour, gently knocking off the excess. Heat a tablespoon or two of olive oil in a 10” sauté pan with sides. Brown the meatballs in the oil and remove from the pan. Drain any excess oil from the sauté pan. Return the pan to the heat and add the onions. Brown the onions lightly and deglaze the pan with white wine. Add the meatballs and the chicken stock to the pan. Bring to a simmer and continue to simmer covered for 10 minutes. Add the fava beans to the pan and simmer for an additional five minutes. Add a little more chicken stock if necessary to keep the pan from drying out. Add the chopped asparagus to the pan and cover. Cook for just a couple of minutes more—until the asparagus is just tender. *If you are using peas instead of fava beans, they will cook more quickly so just add them in with the asparagus to preserve color and flavor. Finish with a tablespoon of butter—this will add richness and texture to the sauce and sprinkle with the remaining chopped mint.
Voila! Enjoy!
Every year I have a new favorite marinade—last year’s was an excellent lemon and herb(basil, dill, parsley—I think that I have tried them all) that is terrific on chicken and fish, but I am oh-so-tired of it. This year I have discovered the oregano-garlic marinade from Joyce Goldstein’s Mediterranean Fresh cookbook. It is awesome, simple and tasty—excellent for both chicken and lamb, as I have pictured here. The vinegar in the marinade helps to tenderize the meat. Basically the acid breaks down proteins. It is important to know that you can over tenderize meat—it gets kind of gross and mushy. This especially happens with chicken. I would recommend marinating lamb or chicken for no longer than a day using this marinade.
That said, the star of the show was the yogurt orzo salad with yogurt, dill and mint. It was delicious, a little sharp from the yogurt—I balanced out any unpleasant tartness with a pinch of sugar—and pungent with fresh dill, mint and scallions. I pulled that recipe out from ‘How to Roast a Lamb’ by Michael Psilakis, a gorgeous cookbook that deserves a spot on your shelf. For a vegetable I chose a simple sautéed spinach with garlic—I love spinach, especially with lamb. Eating spinach always makes me feel so green and healthy. (Maybe it’s the Popeye cartoons I watched as a kid? I don’t know.)
Here is the recipe for both the marinade and the orzo. The orzo is particularly easy. I already know that I will make it all summer long!
Oregano Garlic Marinade adapted from Joyce Goldstein’s Mediterranean Fresh
1 ½ Tbsp. dried oregano (preferably Greek, if you can find it.)
¼ c. red wine vinegar
2 cloves of garlic, minced or grated
½ c. plus 2 Tbsp. mild olive oil
2 tsp. sweet paprika
1 medium shallot, chopped
Salt and Pepper to taste
Put all of the ingredients in the blender and whirr away! That’s it. Pour it over the lamb and let marinate for a minimum of 2 hours. Grill or broil to your desired temperature.
*This is a great vinaigrette if you leave out the paprika and the shallot.
Yogurt Orzo Salad, from ‘How to Roast a Lamb’ by Michael Psilakis—I increased the dill and mint and added a pinch of sugar, but otherwise stayed true to the recipe.
3/4c. orzo
2 Tbsp. Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. White vinegar
1 Tbsp. Water
2 tsp. chopped dill
6 leaves of mint, slivered
2 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced
Salt and Pepper to taste
Pinch of sugar
Cook the orzo in boiling salted water according to the package instructions. While it is cooking, in a large bowl, stir together the yogurt, vinegar, water, dill, mint and scallions. Drain the orzo, rinse well and shake dry. Transfer to the yogurt mixture and season with salt and pepper. Mix well and enjoy. This would be a terrific side dish for grilled chicken, shrimp, crab or white fish.
Bon Appetit!
I’ve been meaning to make the Lamb Kebabs with Charmoula Citrus Dressing from Joyce Goldstein’s Mediterranean Fresh cookbook for a while now and I couldn’t put it off any longer. Chermoula is a Moroccan sauce flavored with lemon, garlic, parsley, cilantro, paprika and cumin. It is zesty and extremely flavorful without being overwhelming. Since it is not overwhelming it is an extremely versatile sauce. I use it to marinate chicken and fish, as a dip for pita, as dressing for pasta salads…so be creative! I served the kebabs with a couscous salad and roasted cauliflower for a simple and delicious meal. I would recommend pairing this meal with a rose, pinot noir or other lighter red wine such as a Chinon or a cotes du rhone.
Lamb Kebabs with Charmoula Citrus Dressing
Adapted from Mediterranean Fresh by Joyce Goldstein Serves 4
2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of fat and sinews and cut into cubes. I also really like lamb shoulder for kebabs. It’s a little more work than the leg of lamb to bone out the shoulder blade, but I find that it is a more tender and flavorful cut.
1 small shallot, roughly chopped
1 cup of Charmoula Citrus Dressing (recipe follows)
Olive Oil, Salt and Pepper
Combine the shallot and the dressing in a blender and puree. Pour this mixture over the meat and toss well to cover. Marinate overnight in the fridge or at room temperature for a few hours. (I marinated my lamb at room temperature for about 2 hours.) Bring the lamb to room temperature before grilling or broiling. Preheat your broiler or grill. Thread the meat onto the skewers. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil or grill to desired doneness. Serve immediately.
Charmoula Citrus Dressing (1 cup)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
3 cloves of garlic, grated or minced
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. cumin
Pinch of cayenne
2 Tbsp. Parsley
2 Tbsp. Cilantro
½ c. olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste.
Although the recipe says to mix this by hand, I found it much easier to put all of the ingredients in the blender and puree it. This worked out really well, and I had one less bowl to wash at the end of the night.
As Julia used to say, Bon Appetit!
This recipe was everything that I could ever want on a weeknight or weekend for that matter. It is quick, easy and delicious. The yogurt glides over the pasta, giving it a luxurious but not fatty mouth feel. The herbs enliven the dish and the Aleppo pepper marries beautifully with the flavor of the lamb and gives off a subtle heat. Aleppo pepper is grown in the Aleppo region of Syria and is also known as Halaby Pepper. It has a moderate heat level and a fruity character, somewhat similar to ancho peppers. If you don’t have any Aleppo pepper in your spice rack you could use an equal amount of paprika with a pinch of cayenne. My favorite Aleppo pepper comes from Penzey’s Spices. I did make some minor adjustments to the recipe—I doubled the aleppo pepper because I wanted a little bit more heat. I substituted shallots for the onion and I increased the amount of garlic. I also browned the onion and garlic for additional flavor. Last but not least I added 2 Tbsp. of chopped cilantro and used dried mint instead of fresh. Make sure to really brown the ground lamb until it is crispy in spots. This really adds flavor and an extra note of texture to this dish.
Happy Eating!
Spaghettini with Ground Lamb, Yogurt and Mint
Serves 4-6 (This recipe is easily multiplied for a crowd or halved for a couple.)
Adapted From Olives and Oranges
By Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox
2 cups plain, whole milk yogurt. I like Straus’ Organic and Pavel’s
1 tsp. Aleppo Pepper or more to taste
2 garlic cloves mashed to a paste or grated
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup coarsely chopped mint leaves or 3 Tbsp dried mint
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro (optional)
2 Tbsp olive oil
¼ cup minced Shallots
¼ cup pine nuts
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 pounds ground lamb
1 pound spaghettini (Linguine, tagliatelle or spaghetti would work too.)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
- Stir together the yogurt, Aleppo pepper, the grated or mashed garlic, the cilantro and the mint in a medium bowl.
- Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and chopped garlic to the skillet and brown. Add this to the yogurt mixture.
Melt the butter in the skillet used for the shallot and garlic. Add the pine nuts and allow them to brown slightly. Add the toasted pine nuts and butter to the yogurt mixture. Stir to combine.
- Add 1/3 of the lamb to the skillet. Increase the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally until the lamb is brown and crispy in spots. This will take about 5-8 minutes per batch. Set the browned lamb aside and repeat with the remaining 2 batches of lamb. The lamb should give off a little bit of liquid. If it doesn’t, simply deglaze the pan with a few tablespoons of water after the final batch has been browned. Pour this liquid over the browned lamb.
- When the last batch of lamb is browning cook the pasta. Cook the pasta to your desired doneness. Transfer the pasta back to the empty pasta pot. Immediately toss in the yogurt and lamb. Season to taste with salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.
If I were to invite guests over for dinner, I would round out the meal with a green salad, purchased flatbread and pomegranate sorbet or baklava for dessert. A simple and delicious dip for the flatbread can be made by combining ¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil with 2 tsp of Zatar.*
*Zatar is a middle eastern spice blend made from sumac, sesame seeds, thyme leaves and salt. It is available at some gourmet grocery stores and at penzeys.com
Yesterday the weather was perfect. The sun was shining, the sky was a lovely shade of blue and there was a slight breeze. Weather like this, especially in San Francisco is fiercely coveted. It makes me want to kick off my shoes and feel the sun warmed sidewalk on my bare feet. I love to cook outdoors when the weather is like this–everything seems to taste better and I feel deliciously free when I have the opportunity to cook outside of the confines of a kitchen. Everyone loves this recipe for pomegranate and cumin glazed lamb kabobs. It’s a simple but delicious marinade that you can throw together in just a few minutes and tastes terrific–like you spent far more time in the kitchen than you actually did. The secret ingredient is pomegranate molasses. The secret technique is to cut the lamb into small bite sized pieces so that you get the maximum marinade to meat ratio.
Pomegranate molasses is an essential ingredient to middle eastern cuisine. It has a wonderful aroma and adds a lovely sweet-sour edge to foods. It also helps to tenderize meat.
Pomegranate and Cumin Glazed Lamb Kabobs
adapted from epicurious.com
1# of boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into 1 inch cubes
Marinade
1/4 c. pomegranate molasses
1/2 c. olive oil
1 tsp. ground cumin
1tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
2 cloves of garlic, minced or put through a garlic press
3 skewers (metal or bamboo. If you are using bamboo, soak the skewers in water for 30 minutes prior to skewering the lamb.)
Combine the ingredients for the marinade and put the lamb pieces in. Let the lamb marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. Thread the lamb pieces on the skewer. If you like, you may alternate the pieces of lamb with pieces of red pepper. Cook the lamb over medium high heat on the grill, about 5-7 minutes per side. (You may also broil the lamb kebabs for the same amount of time if grilling is not an option.) I like to serve this dish with pita bread, hummus, baba ghanoush and muhamara for a Mediterranean inspired meal. Grilled vegetables and couscous would also be a nice accompaniment. For a wine, I would recommend a red such as a domestic pinot noir or a cotes du rhone.
Bon Appetit!
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